CONTENT
—-From the banks of the River Lee to WALTHAMSTOW
—-The Victorian suburb: the world’s longest street market
A complete round tour
——The Village: The bobbies hat (but this has nothing to do with East London!)
—— Local Museum: FREDERICK BREMER, The creator of the first British motor car
—-Born in WALTHAMSTOW: JOHN KEMP STARKEY: The invention of the modern bicycle (sorry again…this did not happen in Walthamstow)
Possible detours out of the round tour, leaving the village and towards WOOD STREET
—-Detour no. 1: through an industrial estate (with a surprise)
—-Detour no.2 towards WOOD ST., after completing the tour of the old village
WOOD ST. Is another town centre well served by shops and eateries
—-Born here: WILLIAM MORRIS
WALTHAMSTOW
From the banks of the RIVER LEA to WALTHAMSTOW VILLAGE
Pointed on the map, the small detour along LEUCHA RD. CA, after COPPERMILL LANE. And you are going to follow a straight line: COPPERMILL LANE, LEUCHA ROAD, HIGH STREET
You are now 7 and a half miles or 12 km. from CHARING CROSS
This is “a place where the travellers are welcomed”. In an older form, WILCUMESTOU. Is this the true etymology?.
In our days not many travellers (visitors, tourists) come here. But the tourist industry is expanding (I am thinking, you might find some London magnets and mugs and little red buses or phone booths, and key rings in a street market stall).
You are in what used to be the South West of the COUNTY OF ESSEX .
in 1086 (DOMESDAY BOOK) there were 3 other separate hamlets, in the middle of forest clearings, connected by trails: KING’S END, SOUTH END and CHAPEL END (where a chapel of ease). The centre of the village, the main settlement, where the main parish was situated, became known as CHURCH END. That village nucleous is still recognisable today (the only one): WALTHSMSTOW VILLAGE.
After the Norman conquest the manor was granted to the TONI family, who are credited with the building of the present church.
RALPH DE TONI had married, in 1103, the daughter of KINK WILLIAM’s niece and WALTHEOF, Saxon Earl of Huntingdon. The manor was known as WALTHAMSTOW TONI. Probably, there was another, smaller, one.
The TONI MANOR HOUSE was sited between the LEA and the village. It was called HIGH HALL, according to some. Others, think that it stood on the site of the present ANCIENT HOUSE, opposite the church.
As the last TONI died childless, his sister took the property into the BEAUCHAMP family, the EARLS OF WARWICK.
From the 15th to the 17th cs. The manor passed through many hands, including royal ones.
The flags SQUIRES were the MAYNARDS, first baronets, later viscounts, since CHARLES MAYNARD, AUDITOR OF THE EXCHEQUER purchased it in 1639. 300 years later a MAYNARD was still the LofM.
From the late Middle Ages, wealthy London merchants built country homes on the beautiful wooded countryside. LM of London SIR GEORGE MONOUX did that inn1514. He became a benefactor of the area: church and ALMSHOUSES. MONOUX GROVE is where his house stood.
By the middle of the 19th c. the still rural parish, was still sprinkled with fine gentlemen’s seats: WALTHAMSTOW HOUSE (Sherwood St.j, THE CHESNUTS (Hoe St.), WATER HOUSE (WILLIAM MORRIS childhood home), ORFORD HOUSE.
Following the arrival of the railways in the 1840s, and the enclosure in the 1850s of the common land, the way was clear for the speculative builders to transform the village into suburbs.
Elsewhere in London, this process involved the destruction of the original village. But in WALTHAMSTOW the Victorian town was built, first in ORFORD ROAD, then in MARSH ST, now HIGH ST.
And the village survives, like an oasis of history, in the middle of the sprawl of East London’s suburbs and industrial areas
A little tour of WALTHAMSTOW: from the Victorian commercial centre to the medieval village
On the map, LU and LO in NE London
Buses to/from WALTHAMSTOW
Remember that you might be walking the HIGH STREET, coming from the other side of the LEA VALLEY (SPRINGFIELD PARK). Very difficult to make your way alongside the World’s longest street market!. Plenty of shops and eateries, of course. On the map, I have pointed out the CENTRAL STATION
When you get to CLEVELAND PARK AVENUE, off the HIGH ST. (left)
Head towards NORWOOD HOUSE and you will see the head of Mr.NORWOOD, but her and property developer, over the doorway. He was a flamboyant character so it is likely that he wished to have his face sculpted when he had his house built in 1895.
Back to the High St.,
CENTRAL LIBRARY
A large residence was converted (changing the frontage)to this use thanks to the money of ANDREW CARNEGIE. One of the hundreds of libraries he helped to establish around the world. He came from a SCOTTISH family who moved to the USA, where he worked his way up to manage the railways. After leaving, he formed his own steel company, in PENNSYLVANIA, becoming the richest mam in the world. And, after retiring, the rest of his life he was dedicated to give away his wealth. He was especially interested in providing free libraries.
In MANOR PARK Library, in LITTLE ILFORD you can see a bust of him.
The architect of the conversion (1907-09) was JW DUNFORD.
HOE (STREET). An Anglo-Saxon name (hōh) meaning ridge. Precisely.
Site of the CANNON CINEMA.
1930. 2.697(!) seats. Built by MASSEY & KOMISJESKY
VICTORIA HALL
Films were screened here since 1896
GRANADA, EMD, MGM, ABC
A frequent patron here was ALFRED HITCHCOCK. He was born around the corner, in LEYTONSTONE
After restoration (MIRTH, MARVEL and MAUD) now it houses a pub and art space.
The entrance foyer is a vast 3 storied drinking palace.
One of the bars is a bustling basement. The beers are from WILD CARD BREWERY.
The chandeliers are the main feature, and the WILLIAM MORRIS inspired decoration. Vintage tables and benches, faded interiors, mirrors, Ionic pilasters.
A SOHO THEATRE outpost
CENTRAL PARADE
Flats, shops and clock tower. Built in 1964.
The Crests of Arms of the great figures of the area. You are going hear about all of them…or they have been already mentioned:
SIR RALPH DE TONI
WILLIAM BETOYNE. Admiral and surveyor of the Navy. Friend of PEPYS and PENN
SIR RALPH SADLER
SIR GEORGE MANOUX
HENRY MAYNARD
GEORGE GASCOIGN. A work of his inspired SHAKESPEARE
WILLIAM MORRIS. The arms in his father’s grave
WARNER FAMILY
St.Mary Road > Church Path
Victorian COTTAGES
COTTAGES, built 1825
While leaving the Victorian suburb, you are entering the VILLAGE, that is CHURCH END, an area protected for its historical and architectural interests, which means that its best features have to be protected, whenever a development takes place, and all alterations or extensions have to be carried out sympathetically in order to preserve and enhance the character of the area. Any demolition needs consent, all works have to be of high standard. This is a conservation area.
WALTHAMSTOW VILLAGE
The narrowest house (2.5 m.wide)
Church Path was the main road EAST-WEST in the Middle Ages, a continuation of CHURCH LANE, now ST.MARY’S RD.
SQUIRES ALMSHOUSES
Founded in 1795 by Mrs.MARY SQUIRES, for six tradesmen’s “decayed” (that is whose wealth had declined) widows, members of the parish of ST.MARY’S WALTHAMSTOW and “no other”. In fact, she lived in NEWINGTON.
It was very common in the old times that widows of well off families were unable to support themselves once their husband died; this type of poverty was called the “deserving poor “.
Now, this dwellings, in red brick, with red dressings, (4 bungalows) are managed by the WALTHAMSTOW & CHINGFORD ALMSHOUSES CHARITY, and applicants from CHINGFORD are accepted, and exceptionally from outside.
ST.MARY’S CHURCH and CHURCHYARD
You are now at the heart of the village, and it is probable that in Saxon times a preaching cross or a timber church already existed on this side, even if this is not referred to in the DB.
The first flint and rubble building is due to the Lord of the Manor, the son of the Conqueror, RALPH DE TONI.
An early reference to a permanent building here appears in a CONVEYANCE of 1108, by which it was transferred to the Prior and Canons of the HOLY TRINITY ALDGATE (LONDON), an AGUSTINIAN priory. Reminders of that monastic institution exist: CHRISTCHURCH ALDGATE, succeeded the monastic one, MITRE ST. and MITRE SQ. correspond to the line of the nave and to the cloister, respectively.
The oldest parts of ST.MARY’s date from the 13th c. Extensions, alterations, rebuildings, restorations have taken place along successive centuries, especially in Tudor times, thanks to local benefactor.GEORGE MANOUX, and ROBERT THORN, from Bristol, but LM of London
After WW2 it was rendered in cement.
1710 Galleries.
1819 Linking of the galleries, heights of WE walls and new Gothic windows
1843 Rest of walls increased. Idem with nave pillars
The column bases are remnants of the 12th c.
Rose Window
1876 Galleries reduced. Roof of stained wood
Open benches, instead of private BOX PEWS
1920 New benches
Oak panelling, as WW1 MEMORIAL
1939 CHOIR Stalls donated by Sir WILLIAM MALLINSON in homage of his father (a contemporary member of the family, Baronets, is a SOAS lector)
1936 Reinforcements, new sacristies, large window added
Destruction caused by incendiaries
1942 Railings removed S scrap iron to help the war effort
A bomb damaged the tower in 1944. A lead coffin, token open, was discovered, while it was initially taken for a bomb fin
After the war: ew heating system, organ rebuilt, railings replaced, side chapel created
From de 1990s
Some rows of pewsremoved, reflooring, entrance area enlarged, crypt rediscovered, tower oak beams (16th c.) discovered and left on view, 18th c. roof beams, disabled toilet and refreshments area created, sanctuary reordered
2001 Floor of chancel lowered and extended into nave. 2 choir stalls retained in the sanctuary, the rest relocated, so communion is now served on the sides at the front of the nave
CHURCHYARD. Wildlife and monuments
The 3 and a half acre churchyard also contains 2 plague pits, from the BLACK DEATH and from the GREAT PLAGUE.VINEGAR was extensively used as a preventative vagains the plague. It used to be poured into ditches either side of the alley: no wonder the name of the alley that you will walk along later on!.
THE NAG’S HEAD PH. 1857
And the COACH HOUSE. A stage coach ran from WALTHAMSTOW to LEYTON from 1700, which continued to operate to the last quarter of the 19th, from this building.
Diversion 1, after the NAG’S HEAD PH>>>>>>>>>>>>
Still along ORFORD ROAD
Former CONNAUGHT HOSPITAL
Originally, a COTTAGE FOR SICK CHILDREN was opened by Mrs and Mr TUDOR, in their house of BRANDON ROAD. In 1890 it moved to larger premises in SALISBURY ROAD: the LEYTON, WALTHAMSTOW AND WANSTEAD HOSPITAL. In 1894, thanks to a gift of HOLMCROFT (now sheltered housing units are on the site, in ORFORD ROAD), and an expanded CHILDREN AND GENERAL HOSPITAL FOR LEYTON, LEYTONSTONE AND WALTHAMSTOW was established.
In 1928 renamed, as the DUKE OF CONNAUGHT had been patron from 1866. The DUKE OF KENT helped raise £17.000 (100 more beds).
In 1930 COMELY BANK was purchased, becoming a clinic, and it was enlarged in 1934.
In 1945 there was mooting of a new building, but never materialised. In 1949 the OLD SCHOOL was incorporated. In 1959 the OLD TOWN HALL was incorporated. In 1948, part of the NHS. In 1974 reorganised. Finally, it closed in 1977.
CONNAUGHT CLOSE, housing development, was build on the site of demolished buildings.
Site of the NEW TOWN HALL, then part of the HOSPITAL, then NURSERY SCHOOL, now apartments
In 1866, the WALTHAMSTOW PUBLIC HALL COMPANY built large hall (at the rear), as a first building of public entertainment in the village. When the company failed the LOCAL BOARD acquired the site.
in 1876 the TOWN HALL was built in this imposing ITALIANATE style, in this frontal position, while the hall continued to be used for social activities. For the next 65 years, this was the hub of the district local government, until the completion of the new TOWN HALL in FOREST ROAD, in 1941. For a time it served as a food office and a welfare centre.
Taken over by the CONNAUGHT HOSPITAL, be ame the main entrance until the closure of the hospital.
Off ORFORD ROAD, Beulah Road
At No.69., FULLERS THE BUILDERS
Edward FULLER, from SUFFOLK, a carpenter from a family of bricklayers and carpenters, established himself in Walthamstow, and helped build the area. The family conserves a copy of THE COUNTRY BUILDERS ESTIMATORS, dating from 1797, with a JOHN FULLER’s sign on the fly leaf.
EDWARD was educated in WOODBRIDGE GRAMMAR SCHOOL, ESSEX, and moved to HAVERHILL, and finally to WALTHAMSTOW in the 1960s. He married REBECCA AMEY, sister of of a fellow carpenter, based in 102 BEULAH RD. You can still see the AMEY name.
They had 4 sons, 2 of them became seafarers, and 1 a carpenter, working on CLIPPERS. WILLIAM inherited the business and went on to built many houses, some of them he sold or retained to let. He celebrated a big party when he built his 100th house, when he was still in his 20s. Amongst his customers, the COLLIERS, later the TOLLEMACHE BREWERS. He built THE TOWER PH., now the GOOSE, in HOE ST. When WILLIAM died in 1931, his sons JACK and ROBERT took over at No.68.
They restored the ANCIENT HOUSE, and played an important role in the development of WALTHAMSTOW. During WW2, Robert served in the Army, while Jack ran the business as a bomb damage repair specialist.
In the 50s PETER and HUGH succeeded their respective fathers, running the business until the early 90s., establishing a reputation of high quality of repairs and restoration.
In 2018, NUGH’s son, WILL, and his wife SARAH relocated the business here.
They employ 45 in house skilled and dedicated experts in conservation and restoration, and the company has received prestigious architectural awards and have worked on some of London’s most historic buildings.
BEULAH & EDEN ROADS. MODEL COTTAGES
They contrast, in scale and grandeur, with the middle class villas built around the area in the same period.
This was the CHURCH COMMON, which was divided in plots, laid it by the NATIONAL FREEHOLD LAND SOCIETY, and the houses cost between £12 and £19.
The NFHLS was set up in 1849, with the aim of extending the franchise through property ownership (as only house owners could vote). In TROLLOPE’s IRISH NOVEL there is an amusing scene where the owner of a freehold farm makes his tenants into freeholders, in order to get them to vote for him. He brings a cartload of turfs from his farm, and makes the tenants to stand on two turfs, so that they are able to swear in court that they stood on their own freehold land!.
Back to ORFORD ROAD.
Site of the NEW NATIONAL SCHOOL, then HOSPITAL, then ASIAN CENTRE, now WALTHAM FOREST COMMUNITY HUB
B. 1866 by WILLIAM WITTINGTON, in a ROGUE GOTHIC style.
In order to house the VESTRY ROAD boys school. The girls continued in that building. In 1890 in between both buildings there was a provision for 1.062 children, although the average attendance was 633.
Between 1904 and 1949 the girls occupied this building. Afterwards, until 1977, PATHOLOGY DEPARTMENT of the HOSPITAL.
ORFORD ROAD and the area around (GROSVENOR PARK ROAD) comform a CA., which feature some of the earliest urbanisation away from the historic centre. Mr.FULLER was from SUFFOLK, no wonder ORFORD, Suffolk village, was a name chosen for the main Street.
The GROSVENOR HOUSE ESTATE, with its avenue of large elm trees was the first to be purchased for developent. From January 1851 plots were offered for sale. Nos.73, 76 and 78 were the first ones. The trees were felled and the road, GR.PK RD, laid out. After being enclosed in 1850, CHURCH COMMON was split up for building purposes in 53 and in 1860 it was fully developed.
By 1855 the rest of the CA was fully built up.
From 1870, with the coming of the railways, the population continued to increase. And you can see the physical barrier between the village and the Victorian development: the railway cutting.
By 1877, ORFORD ROAD and around became a high class shopping centre, with 35 shops. With the relocation of the TOWN HALL here in 1876, you can see that status as a centre was confirmed.
Later, it would loose that status as a commercial entre… and the TOWN HALL moved out. Plus ça change.
ORFORD HOUSE
Social Centre with Bowling Green and Garden
Now a Members Club, but not for profit
JOHN CASS, WHITECHAPEL prosperous merchant, had this NEO-CLASSICAL, REGENCY stuccoed mansion built in 1802, at the edge of CHURCH COMMON, the old BERRY FIELD. This was the third house to stand here since the 17th c…and the grandest.
See the centrally recessed entrance , with its Doric columns and its entablature with wreaths.
Set in spacious grounds, including a pond, and an avenue of trees alongside the current EAST and WEST AVENUES.
The stables were at the rear.
PATRICK CHALMERS, City merchant from ALDGATE BARS, and owner of the CASTLE ESTATE in Scotland, took residence here in 1806. Born ad educated here, were his children, except the younger PATRICK, who attended HIGHAM SCHOOL. The family resided here until 1834.
Between 1835 and 1838, ELIZABETH CASS was a renowned beneficiary. Then, until 1854, the WOODLEY family gave the place its current name. JAMES WOODLEY was a corn merchant from ALDGATE.
With the enclosure of the COMMON, c.1842, Church Common Lane becomes ORFORD ROAD, and the house is cut off its lands to the N.
The ornamental pond was drained and ORFORD VILLAS built (demol. 1960s, a playground created, but built upon in 1971).
The CITY OF LONDON BUILDING SOCIETY bought the land, and readied for urban development. Building plots adjacent to the house were laid out, alongside WINGFIELD ROAD.
A PRIVATE SCHOOL run by Mrs. BURGESS operated in the house.
1857. THOMAS KEMP, a silk manufacturer from SPITALFIELDS, bought it as a retirement home, with some of his children. One of them, later in his life, lived at 8 ORFORD VILLAS. And other members of the family occupied the house.
By 1890, it had passed to a BILLINGSGATE fish merchant, WILLIAM GOWER, with sons and sisters in law. His son FREDERICK was much loved, as a teacher at Sunday school and choir member.
After the death of Mrs. GOWER, the sons sold the entire content in an auction, which was held here, and the house sold and transformed into a social club, in 1921
GROSVENOR PARK VILLAS, detached and semi detached, are essentially urban, aspired to offer the grandeur and the elegance of country village. 73,76 &78 are REGENCY inspired, with shallow pitched roofs, deep bracketed eaves, grand door-cases featuring classical stucco decorations.
THE WINDMILL & THE CASTLE PHs are surviving examples of the 8 licensed ale housekeepers of 1801, which became 8 inns and 7 beer houses in 1848. Later on, with the pop. growth, became 17 inns and 12 beer houses (1 PH per 246 persons
VESTRY ROAD
Former POSTAL SORTING OFFICE, now ISLAMIC CENTRE and MOSQUE
B. 1903. Terracotta used extensively. See the full length of the foliated frieze and its Dutch gables
Site of BURY FIELD. Rural. Later enclosed and built over.
RAILWAY CUTTING
1870. The Chingford Line.
The wealthy WALTHAMSTOW businessmen used to commute by stage coach to LEA BRIDGE ST., in order to catch the N&E RAILWAY to the CITY.
In 1864 the GER proposed a route through BETHNAL GREEN, CLAPTON, ST.JAMES’S ST. The split from these cuttings was uses to built the embankments across the WALTHAMSTOW MARSHES.
Local landowners had tied up their capital in local housing developments.
The Vestry insisted on tunnelling under the recreational ground between East Avenue an Vestry Road.
See the half broken off NOTICE on the railway bridge. The GER (1868-1923] became LNER
”Bridge is insufficient to carry weights beyond the ordinary traffic of the district and owners and persons in charge of locomotives and other vehicular traffic are thereby warned that it is unlawful to attempt to drive them over this bridge and they will be held liable for any damage” (text missing reconstructed by
No.5. VESTRY HOUSE
1866.Designed by WILLIAM WITTINGTON in a JACOBEAN style.
Built as a SCHOOL HOUSE of the ST.MARY’S SCH.
Site of ST.MARY’S, NATIONAL SCHOOL, then NATIONAL SPIRITUALIST CHURCH.
1819. Beautifully carved stones.
It took the overflow from MONOUX SCH. It became GIRLS SCH. when boys moved to ORFORD RD. Still in use in 1906.
The SPIRITUAL. CH. is one of the 340 churches belonging to the SPIRITUALISTS’ NATIONAL UNION (2.700 members). The HQ and the ARTHUR FINDLAY COLLEGE are in CAMBRIDGESHIRE. Healing, philosophy, psychic disciplines, mediums, public speakers…
The BARBANELL CENTRE (education and conference centre) is in STAFFORD
NATIONAL SCHOOLS, BRITISH SCHOOLS
From 1811, in ENGLAND & WALES, the NATIONAL SOCIETY FOR THE PROMOTION OF RELIGIOUS EDUCATION, established the NATIONAL SCHOOLS. The N.S has become from 2016 the Church of England EDUCATION OFFICE.
NSCh, provided education to the children of the poor, in accordance to CE teachings. It was the first near universal system of elementary education, together with the, smaller, and Non-Conformist and Non-Denominational BRITISH AND FOREIGN SCHOOL SICIETY (BRITISH SCHOOLS), f. 1808, as ROYAL LANCASTER SOCIETY, using the MONITORIAL SYSTEM of JOSEPH LANCASTER of SOUTHWARK.
National Schools were b. Normally beside the parish church, and were named after it.
From 1833 state grants were paid and inspections took place, in both systems.
The EDUCATION ACT of 1870 established the BOARD SCHOOLS.
The state grant for NSs and BSs was for running costs and amounted to the 50% of the budget.
The NS responded by raising £10 mil, and doubled the number of schools, to 12.000 in 15 years. However due to the difficulties for meting costs, some schools had to be closed or handed over to SCH.BOARDS
The 1902 SCH.ACT provided relief. And the BUTLER 1944 one established the state funding for voluntary aided and controlled primaries, still promoting CofE teachings.
A souvenir… A COLUMN from the GENERAL POST OFFICE, in ST.MARTIN-LE-GRAND, CITY OF LONDON
5 tones IONIC capital from the portico of the public building, designed by ROBERT SMIRKE, in 1829.
Messrs. MORTIMER LTD, local stonemasons, gave it to the W. URBAN DISTRICT, who placed it initially in LLOYDS PARK. It was moved here in 54.
Site of the WATCH HOUSE & the local LOCK UP
The “cage” was erected in 1725, and removed in 1912.
From 1841 (till 1870] the “police” and “prison” was transferred to the 1756 extension of the parish workhouse. One of the cells can be seen in its original state, complete with graffiti written on the wall.
The cage
In England received many names: blind house, bone-house, bridewell, jug, kilty, lobby, guard-house, roundhouse, tower…
EVERTON FC’s CREST features a lock-up (EVERTON BROW). CASTLE CARY’s lock up is reputed to have inspired the design of police helmets
It served as a temporary detention place, as official prisons and criminal courts were beyond easy walking distance, for drunks, rogues, burglars, muscreants… and to h9ld people being brought before the local magistrates.
Normally: Small single room, narrow slit windows, grating or holes, tiled dome, or spire, sometimes round, free standing, or attached to a wall or incorporated to othe buildings.
More about punishment…
The stocks would have been nearby. Or the ducking stool, or the pillories, and the penfold (animal pond).
And WATCHMEN were around to keep the peace.
Former FIRE STATION
A small detached garage. The fire pump had no engine, and had to be pushed and pulled around by firemen.
In 1863 the system was modernised, so that it could be pulled by horses. More about the subject, in the PUMP HOUSE MUSEUM (10 SOUTH ACCESS RD.)
Still alongside VESTRY ROAD
Former VESTRY OFFICE, now the VESTRY HOUSE, the local MUSEUM
The VESTRY was the meeting of all ratepayers and was responsible for the local government inn England since the 16th c.
The rates collected from the local households provided for the old, the sick and the elderly, in the form of outdoor relief, or handouts.
As the costs were raising the parishes took that welfare “in house”, creating WORKHOUSES
Built 1730, in fact it combined the use as a local parish authority HQ, with that of the WORKHOUSE, the poorhouse.
In 1840 the workhouse moved to STRATFORD, when the workhouse was grouped into the WEST HAM POOR LAW UNION.
The 1872 PUBLIC HEALTH ACT established that the sewerage and sanitary powers of the Vestry were taken over by the WEST HAM BOARD OF GUARDIANS, but to avoid this
The building became, subsequently, a POLICE station. WALTHAMSTOW had been included in the METROPOLITAN POLICE DISTRICT.
Afterwards, it became a private house and, then, a museum, from 1931
The first motor car with an internal combustion engine, the BREMER CAR is one of the star exhibits.
Inventors in Walthamstow?
FREDERICK BREMER, from German extraction, was born in STEPNEY, in1872. He was a gas fitter and a plumber by trade. He and his assistant, THOMAS BATES, built the first British 4 wheels, petrol fuelled, motor car with internal combustion engine. In 1892, as claimed by “MOTOR” magazine in 1912. His workshop was in 1 CONNAUGHT RD., South of QUEENS RD. LO Sta. In 1894, from there, he took his car on the roads of Walthamstow. And that year moved to another project: a 4 cylinder car.
He operated an engineering company and took out a patent for improving gears.
However, he never put his design into mass production. And he donated it to the MUSEUM in 1933.
This car was, in 1964, the first to enter into London to Brighton VETERAN CAR RUN, enlisted as num. 1. That year, thought, after 17 m.the crankshaft broke… Finally, in 65 the BREMER CAR, again as num. 1, completed the 54 m.course in just 8 h.
In Sept.2008 the FREDERICK BREMER SCHOOL, specialised in engineering was set up, in SIDDELEY RD.
Church Lane
ANCIENT HOUSE
Now a private home, is 15th c. timber-framed structure, a “hall house”, with upper floor and dormers added in the half of the 18th c. Weatherboarded and converted into 4 shops in the 19th c. (GF large windows). A cycle shop and a tea-rooms…
A GLASS PANEL protects the original WATTLE AND DAUB structure.
It was restaures by FULLERS THE BUILDERS in 1934, as a memorial to WG FULLER, who died that year.
Was this the site of the MANOR HOUSE?
The PENFOLD red POST BOX
Off Church Lane, Bishops Close
THE CHESTNUTS
An early 19th c. Villa, REGENCY style, with rusticated stucco, projecting GF and wings
The dwelling of Rev. JF ROBERTS, Headmaster of the MANOUX SCHOOL (1820-1836) and, at the same time, a boarding house for the private pupils he taught a the school.
The current Close was build, with maisonettes, on the site of the extensive grounds of the house, well timbered, and laid out with lawns, flower beds and borders
Site of the original NAG’S HEAD, the Village TUDOR Inn. The PH was rebuilt in ORFORD RD.in 1859.
No.10 The small detached elegant GEORGIAN DWELLING (1830) of the REED FAMILY, local builders.
Typical shallow pitched roof, deep eaves, Doric porch, semi circular brick arches over GF windows
Detour 2 towards WOOD ST. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
You have decided continuing on…
After Church Lane walk through the churchyard and alongside Vinegar Alley.
The name VINEGAR was already in use since the 18th c. As a footpath was well established since the Middle Ages.
MONOUX ALMSHOUSES & GRAMMAR SCHOOL FOR BOYS
Now managed by WALTHAMSTOW & CHINGFORD ALMSHOUSE CHARITY, and still providing secure and comfortable accounts, Sir GEORGE MONOUX, Alderman of London and local worthy, as he had made money in the 1480s, as a MERCHANT ADVENTURER, exporting cloth and importing wine, salt and oil, founded the original ones in 1527, and before his d. in 1544 they were in operation.
He served as a Bailiff and Mayor in Bristol. Early 16th c. moved to London, was admitted to the FREEDOM of the City as a member of the DRAPER COMPANY, of which he became a Master in 6 occasions. And then, successively, Alderman for BASSISHAW, Sheriff of London, Lord Mayor.
He invested in property in numerous counties.’
He bought his country seat, WALTHAMSTOW MOONES.
As it was customary with wealthy merchants he bequeathed, in his 1541 Will, money and property to establish an almshouse and a school. In his will, 1541, he providing for their financial future in order to assist aged and poor companymen and instruct poor local children.
The SCHOOL was in the brick part at the far end. It was rebuilt in 1955, following bomb damage (Oct. 1940).
The Master lived in the protruding section in the middle.Now (from 1927) and much expanded, the school is in Chingford Road, after previous moves to West Avenue and the high Street.
The land had belonged to the Priory of the HOLY TRINITY, ALDGATE. In presence of an attorney MONOUX took possssion of it and the construction began following his e specifications: 13 rooms 13ft 17ft, with 2 windows, 2 doors, a fireplace and a backyard.
In a larger, gabled house, in the centre, lived the schoolmaster and the almshouses trust. On the first floor, the upper rooms were used as school room, chapel and hall, used for dinners and wedding feasts for the poor.
An adjoining house to the North was where spits, iron, pewter or other implements for the said dinners were stored. We know all this, a sketch of the place and the rules to ensure the good governance of the institution, thanks to a surviving memorandum.
The former ST. MARY’S INFANTS SCHOOL is now the WELCOME CENTRE (HALL)
The school had been founded in 1824 by Vícar WILSON, in a barn on his GLEBE. This handsome building was provided in 1824. This was the first school of its kind established by the Church of England. Children entered for 2 to 7 years, and were prepared to go to the ST.MARY’s NATIONAL SCHOOL.
It was used as a school until 1978.
Now walk past the West end of the church and past the almshouses into Church Hill.
NEW RECTORY
OLD VICARAGE, absorbed by the HIGH SCHOOL. A self supporting school for girls f.1890 (in West Avenue Road,,later moving to CHURCH HILL HOUSE)). The original Head mistress was Miss HEWETT, aged 27. She retired in 1924, after serving for 35 years.
After being taken over by ESSEX COUNTY COUNCIL (see the 3 Saxon Seax Knives), it moved into this Edwardian purpose building
In 1956 began teaching the first male.
OLD RECTORY. Demolished, it stood across the road ahead to the left
Still more inventions in WALTHAMSTOW?. Well, not really, but you will like the following piece…
JOHN KEMP STARLEY was born here in 1854. He moved to COVENTRY in 72 to work with his uncle, the inventor JAMES STARLEY. He had a sewing machine factory, and he is attributed the HIGH WHEEL BICYCLE (higher speeds!). Or was it EUGENE MEYER?
In COVENTRY uncle STARKEY introduced tangent spokes and a mounting step. The bicycle was called ARIEL. Additions were: ball bearings, solid rubber tires, hollow section steel frames.
The front wheel had a diameter of up to 60’ (1’5 m. ). It became known as the ORDINARY, later a PENNY FARTHING (the front wheel was the Penny, the rear one, the Farthing, that is a smaller coin in size and a fourth in value of a penny). It was fast but unsafe and dangerous : if you hit a bad spot you would be thrown over the front wheel!. Coming a cropper, taking a header.
For her part QUEEN VICTORIA owned a STARLEY’s ROYAL SALVO tricycle, as did other ladies of high society. Much safer.
PENNY FARTHINGS were very popular amongst the upper middle classes in England and the whole of the Empire, in France (Paris, St.Etienne), in America (New England, Boston)… I n the USA, PRESSEY invented the AMERICAN STAR BICYCLE, with a smaller front wheel and POPE introduced mass production and mechanisation, with aggressive advertising (bikes represented 10% of ads in papers, in 1898), and promoted a Good Roads movement. However, in Chicago, the Western Wheel Company introduced stamping, which reduced cost and price.
In 1877 JK STARKEY and WILLIAM SUTTON started their new business , and developed a new, safer and easier to use bicycle than the prevailing ORDINARY. STARLEY & SUTTON started with a tricycle, and all their products were branded ROVER.
But then came the biggest change in the history of cycling: it evolved from being a dangerous toy in the hands of sporting young men to everyday everybody’s transport tool. And that, thanks to John Kemp STARLEY, James’ nephew. The ROVER SAFETY BICYCLE appeared in 1885.
Steerable front wheel, both wheels equally sized, a chain to drive the rear wheel… But, then JOHN DUNLOP reinvented the pneumatic tyre, and someone came up which the diamond pattern…
All this set the pattern to the world, according to CYCLING magazine.
In 1889 the company became JOHN KEMP STrley & CO. LTD. In the late 1890s, ROVER CYCLE CO. LTD. John died suddenly in 1901.
ROVER began building motorcycles and cars. Based in SOLIHULL, WARWICKSHIRE. “Finer than any but ROLLS-ROYCE”, according to a 1952 ROAD & TRACK, a USA magazine.
Land Rover, Range Rover, British Leyland Jaguar Land Rover… Private, nationalised, sold to TATA, or to BMW… Even if now ROVER is a dormant property of JAGUAR LAND ROVER (TATA), think STARLEY, think WALTHAMSTOW.
And as a little tip here you have…
A sketch from c.1500, attributed to GIAN GIACOMO CAPROTTI, a pupil of LEONARDO DA VINCI, depicts a sort of bike. For some, the sketch is a fraud. For the followers of MARINONI is a transcript of DA VINCI’s CODEX ATLANTICUS.
A CÉLÉRIFÈRE was developed and demonstrated in the PALAIS ROYAL, in 1792, by a “Comte de Sivrac”. Really?
1817. COUNT VON DRAIS, civil servant of the Grand Duchy of Baden, designed a LAUFSMACHINE or “running machine”. A DRAISINE, in English; a DRAISIENNE, in French.
A 1818 steerable, 2 wheels, human propelled VELOCIPEDE was manufactured in Ger and Fr
A HOBBY HORSE or DANDY HORSE, as was called in English, was made of wood, 22 kgrs, with iron shodheels and foot pushed. However, it was prone to accidents. A Chinese visitor in Paris still saw them in 1866.
In 1863 pedals and rotary cranks were added to the front wheel hub, becoming the firs pedal -operated bike.
The 1816 crop failure, following the volcanic eruption of TAMBORA, in 1815, killed many horses of starvation, so an alternative was definitely needed.
In London cartwright DENNIS JOHNSON, in 1818, picked up the concept, and improved it: shaped like a serpentine, with larger wheels… “PEDESTRIAN CURRICLE” was another name for the HOBBY HORSE. London Regency DANDIES adopted this craze and fashion. “The nothing of the day”, said KEATS. As boots were worn out rapidly, the fashion ended.
In the 30s and 40s 3 and 4 wheelers became fashionable. With pedals or hand cranks. WILLARD SAWYER of DOVER came up with one treadle operated.
In the 1830s KIRKPATRICK MACMILLAN, a blacksmith came up with the first mechanically propelled 2 wheel vehicle. That was a Scottish invention. However, in 1842, an accident was reported in Glasgow: la velocipede of “ingenious design” knocked over a pedestrian and the rider was fined. A similar machine is exhibited in GLASGOW’s MUSEUM of TRANSPORT, being considered the oldest bike. It was built by GAVIN DALZELL of LESMAHAGOV. A Scot.
In 1869 the first record of a rod driven treadle bicycles. Built by THOMAS MCCALL, of KILMARNOCK. A Scot.
In 1863 PHILIPP MORITZ FISCHER invented the very first bicycle with pedals, the TRETKURBELFAHRRAD, in SCHWEINFURT, BAVARIA.
in the 1860s MICHAUX or PIERRE LALLEMENT might have invented a 2 wheel machine with rotary cranks and pedals mounted to the front wheel hub. The OLIVIER brothers, entrepreneurs, adopted this new machine, as did GEORGES DE LA BOUGLISE. They formed a part with MICHAUX, setting up the first mass production. First, with a serpentine design, later, with a more resistant diagonal design.
A rigid frame and iron banded wheels explain why in England and the US, it was called the BONE SHAKER.
ALEXANDRE LEFEBVRE’s has a lesser-claim of rear pedalling: he added pedals to a DRAISINE. In 1866 he filed a patent. Very similar to JOHNSON’s in the US.
In the US though bikes fell out of favour due to the bad road surfaces. Not so in the UK.
And now you know all about the history of the bicycle
Down into the CHING VALLEY
If you cross over straight CHURCH HILL/PROSPECT HILL and walk along THE DRIVE, you might realise that the ground drops away on all sides. You are approaching the top of the hill that protected the village from the North winds. At the end of The Drive the descent is very steep into the CHING VALLEY
Hurst Road
By the HEALTH CENTRE sign, walk along the path, turn left, follow the path downhill
Forest Road
BROOKSCROFT. One of the surviving 18th c. mansion (back then looking out over woods and fields).
It became a YMCA hostel
Shortly, you will be in front of WALTHAM FOREST TOWN HALL
The new civic centre of WALTHAMSTOW, away from the Victorian one
Nowadays this is the administrative centre of WALTHAM FOREST, since 1965 (Local Government Act, 1963) one of the 32 LONDON BOROUGHS. The original MUNICIPAL BOROUGHS were LEYTON, WALTHAMSTOW and CHINGFORD.
In the old times, WALTHAM FOREST was a royal forest, and an institution which managed the deer of SW ESSEX. EPPING FOREST is a reminder.
Population: 280.000, in 1931, 214.000 in 1931, 258.000 in 2011, 277.000 estimated mid 2019.
White, especially British, but 15§ European
Asian, 16%, especially Pakistani
Black, African and Caribbean 15%
WF was the first ever LONDON BOROUGH OF CULTURE, and one of the 2012 OOGG & PPGG host boroughs. By the way, the FRED WIGG TOWER, in LEYTONSTONE, was used as a launch pad for antiterrorist surface-to air-missiles
The famous of WALTHAM FOREST
BECKHAM, BECK, REDZZ, JACOBI, HITCHCOCK, IRON MAIDEN , LETHAL BIZZLE, GRAYSON PERRY
Coat of Arms of WALTHAM FOREST
Cross, for STRATFORD LANGTHORN abbey
Lion, FROM THE FRAUCEY family
Crown
Stag Dexter Supporter, Anchor, Oak Leaves: arms of the MONOUX
Stag Sinister Supporter, representing CHINGFORD, with sword, representing the association with the CITY and with the DEAN and CHAPTER of ST.PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
Three Oak trees, representing the 3 merged councils
Wave line, means the RIVER LEA
Green Shield, and a crowned Stag, representing the old Royal Forest
Motto: Fellowship is life (William MORRIS’S)
WALTHAM FOREST COLLEGE
Erected, in 1939, in a NEO-GEORGIAN style (Arch. J. STUART). At that time, the largest and most monumental public building of the district.
Originally, the SOUTH WEST ESSEX TECHNICAL COLLEGE and SCHOOL OF ART.
During WW2 the armed forces used it for technical training. When it was reclassified as a ship its name was HMS SHRAPNEL.
In 1961, began to teach art here PETER BLAKE, designer of the the sleeve for the album SARGENT PEPPER’S LONELY HEARTS CLUB BAND.
He would arrive after 11am, with a hangover, then straight to the BELL PH where he would meet his students (among them IAN DURY) and they were taught there.
The PLOUGH reminds us of farming
TOWN HALL & ASSEMBLY HALL
B. between 1938 and 1941, replacing the Victorian building in ORFORD RD.
Designed by P.D HEPWORTH RA, in the stripped classical style popular of those years, for civic buildings. PEVSNER calls is SWEDISH. Not fully NEO-GEORGIAN, but not MODERN either.
HEPWORTH had studied in the AA and the ÉCOLE DE BEAUX ARTS. He lived in ZOFANNY HOUSE (STRAND ON THE GREEN). In 1944 he was appointed one of the Principal Architect of the Imperial Wars Commision and the Planning Committee for the rebuilding of London.
At the rear, five sculptures by Irish artist JOHN F.KAVANAGH, representing fellowship (the central figure, modelled on W.MORRIS), motherhood, work, recreation and education.
On the North wall, TRAGEDY by the same artist
This became the new administrative centre of the district. It had been part of CLAY or CHESNUTS) FARM.
WAR MEMORIAL
Larger than life size female who is lamenting the loss of a loved one.
MAGISTRATES COURT
New Millenium celebrations BEACON
One of those gas-burning beacons set up through the UK before the 31st of December 1999.
WALTHAM FOREST TOWN HALL & CIVIC CENTRE
On CHINGFORD ROAD the SIR GEORGE MONOUX COLLEGE
BELL CORNER
THE BELL PH
Exhuberant Victorian, erected in 1900, replacing a previous short lived PH. A vastly increased population in the area required new PHs.
Vast ornamental lanterns!: in an age where public lighting was not widely available.
Built LEWCOCK & COLLCOTT. Still in view WILIAM MORRIS paper, original floor boards, and fireplace.
On the East wall of the BELL, in 2016, the French street artist INVADER, well known for his pixelated mosaics that can be found all around the word, put up here his largest piece in London. An space invader wearing a bowler hat whilst holding a pint of frothing beer!
SRI KATAPAKA VINAYAGAR TEMPLE
The elephant headed figure on the front is GANESHA or GANAPATI VINAYAKA, a widely revered god, regarded as the remover of obstacles, and patron of education, knowledge and wisdom, in arts and sciences. Accounts differ on why his head was replaced with that of an elephant.
And he is often depicted with a rat or a mouse, which he used to dominate or ride upon. A remover of pests!.
Former EMPIRE CINEMA
Buil 1912-13 in what had been previously a green field.
This was one of the 4 ELECTRIC PICTURE THEATRES built by the GOOD BROTHERS, of 324 HOE STREET. They were builders and builders merchants, but for a short while, as well, impresarios.
ENTRANCE to LLOYDS PARK
LLOYDS PARK. THE WATER HOUSE. WILLIAM MORRIS
It has stood here, since medieval times, a typical country house of a London tradesman, distiller, brewer, or people in government, a bishop… with their families. In the 16/17th cs: THOMAS BROWNE, THOMAS MERRY (India merchant) the Bishop of Bath and Wells, RALPH HAWKINS.
The WATER in the name is a reference to the lake which fills much of the garden (the current park). In fact the lake was a moat, that is a defensive protection, in violent times, or simply to avoid animals entering the grounds. The original medieval house here might have been CRICKLEWOODS, in the 14th c.
The current WATER HOUSE was build in 1740.
LLOYD PARK (and LLOYD PARK MANSION, as the house was called) own the name to EDWARD LLOYD and family, who occupied the house from 1857. He was a publisher of cheap books and Valentine cards. An early publication of his was the serialised fiction of SWEENEY TODD. This was an era were more and more readers were avid of entertainment, especially on Sundays. His LLOYDS WEEKLY reached a circulation of 1 mil. copies. It was pub. 1842-1931.
He created in 1874 as well the DAILY CHRONICLE, pub. until 1930. It was renowned for the breadth of its coverage, and it was politically influential. By 1914, he was selling more copies than the best known papers, put all together. It was finally bought by DAVID LLOYD GEORGE, future PM.
LLOYD was an enthusiast of industrial processes and technological innovations, which gave him an unbeatable competitiveness. He introduced HOE’S ROTARY PRESS, in 1856, setting new standards for FLEET STREET efficiency.
A few years later he took the unusual step of making his own newsprint (low cost, as it was made of wood pulp paper). He harvested vast crops of esparto grass in ALGERIA, revolutionising the paper trade. He was the only 19th c. proprietor that took control of the entire supply chain.
He was a publicity looking entrepreneur. He even stamped his brand on copper coins (a crime, defacement!), or glued paper discus to coins, or painted ads on pavements (during the night), and introduced pictorial posters and bills. Development of advertising was a product of the abolition of duty, in 1853. In 1855 half a page, 10 years later, 2 pages. By 1875, 4 pages or more.
LLOYS lived in SALISBURY SQ. (CITY). While living here he married twice. MARIA MARTINS had 15 siblings.
His business greediness, the vulgar content of his publications, his own life of dissipate sex behaviour… gives us a dim view of the man. He gave a good treatment to his employees.
And he donated the house and grounds to the Walthamstow Council, who opened them as a park to the public, 1900. LLOYD died in 1890.
BEFORE LLOYD…
From 1848 to 1856 the great polymath WILLIAM MORRIS (born in 1834 in ELM HOUSE, in FOREST ROAD) lived here with his family. Following the death of father, his mother decided to return to WALTHAMSTOW, to a more modest house, this (pretty substantial)one.
The MORRISES we wan affluent family. His father, William, was a partner at SANDERSON & CO., a brokers firm.
In 1840 the family moved to WOODFORD HALL (beside the GREEN, demolished 1900).
During childhood, WILLIAM, the 3rd of 9 children, developed a great passion for all things medieval and a great affinity for nature.
These gardens were his playground, playing with friends and brothers h dressed as a medieval knight, pretending that they were captive of the dragons in the island), fishing for pike and perch, or just sitting inside on the big window seat, next to the large arched window, at the back, looking at the gardens. He read a lot, THE ARABIAN NIGHTS or GERARD’s HERBAL. Storytelling and nature were his interests.
His natural ability for reading and writing went hand in hand with his developing interest for wildlife surrounding him. This love of the natural world would have a growing influence on his work.
He attended, from the age of 13, MARLBOROUGH COLLEGE, then he matriculated to read Theology at EXETER COLLEGE, Oxford, in 1853.
Reading the social comments of writer such CARLYLE, RUSKIN and Ch.KING he was swayed from his initial intention of taking holly orders. So he trained as an architect, and married and married JANE BURDEN. He developed a close, deep, lasting friendship with ROSSETTI and BURNE JONES, the PRE-RAPHAELITES, who fostered in him an increasing interest in art and architecture. This was the beginning of a remarking career spanning several disciplines, as artist, a writer, a craftsman, a social activist.
He is the father of England’s ARTS AND CRAFT MOVEMENT.
The WILLIAM MORRIS GARDEN is dedicated to four strands his work, four themes are celebrated:
-his SOCIALIST ideas, which made him engage with the STRUGGLES of the working classes
-his AESTHETICS, which made him so influential in shaping the TASTE of the British public
-his DESIGN GENIOUS, which made him so creative across so many different creative media
-his passion for PRESERVING THE CULTURAL HERITAGE. If it had not been for MORRIS this house here and many other buildings might not be standing today
Plants here are chosen to provide something interés to look through all seasons and to mirror notify in WILLIAM MORRIS’s life.
THE GALLERY
During his childhood years in the WATER HOUSE, WM would have started to experiment with his arty ideas. Some of the pioneering work is showcased.
9 rooms, packed with artefacts like rich wallpaper designs, with often dense patterns of lush foliage, highly decorative tapestries, furniture, stained glass windows… All this became the backbone of MORRIS & CO., the trailblazing design firm he created in 1860s to supply the fashionable interiors of many well-to-do Victorian homes.
But, as WM was not only a designer, upstairs is explored his RADICAL POLITICS, with books, pamphlets, lectures… illustrating a campaigning socialist who lectured across the country about what he saw as the dehumanising effects of industrialisation on the working classes.
In his utopian novel NEWS FROM NOWHERE, lavishly illustrated, he suggested tantalising glimpses of his perfect world, a world without schools, where marriage was abolished, a society in harmony with nature, which keeps citizens busy with creative and enjoyable work.
Needless to say, art, creativity and beauty were the common foundations of both his political and his design ideals.
He was the man who said “have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful or believe to be useful”
More about WILLIAM MORRIS:
— THE RED HOUSE, BEXLEYHEATH
— V&A
— MUSEUM OF THE HOME
— KELMSCOTT HOUSE (COACH HOUSE), HAMMERSMITH, WILLIAM MORRIS SOCIETY HQ
— STANDEN, in SUSSEX, the PREMIER ARTS & CRAFT HOME, decorated by MORRIS &CO.
More about the park…
Victorians enjoyed gardening and landscaping outdoors and green spaces. They though that parks would boast the local economy, making local residents proud of their neighbourhood.
The LLOYDS made a gift of the house and grounds to the District Council, with the condition that more land had to be added, in order to make it all a place for enjoyment. Therefore, the council bought the land on the other side of the moat and invested £6.000 adding a terrace garden, a keeper’s house, 2 bandstands, tennis courts, a bowling green, a cricket field, a large rookery and a water feature, a tea kiosk, a dove house, in addition to planting and introducing waterfowl and birds. The AVELING PARK (on the site of fields and farmland) is where the LLOYDS PARK STUDIOS, the KEEPERS’ OFFICE, the WINNS GALLERY, the COMMON ROOM and the AVELING CENTRE & CAFÉ are.
A curious feature in the park is a capital from SHERNHALL
The coat of arms of the WARNER family can be seen at the corner of Forest Road and WINNS TERRACE. The Warners erected the terrace, and WINNS (or other variations) was the name of the moated house in the Middle Ages.
If you carry walking on along FOREST RD., Westwards
THE LORD PALMERSTON PH
A TORY first, then LIBERAL, he a PM in the 1850s and a Foreign Secretary of interventionist policies and inventor of gunboat diplomacy… His abrasive style earned him to be referred as LORD POMICE STONE.
Heading South alongside PALMERSTON ROAD you will reach the HIGH STREET
And now the two diversions:
1. Diversion to WOOD STREET after completing the round tour
On the map, I have pointed the RC SCHOOL
After VINEGAR ALLEY and from the HOLY FAMILY SCHOOL
HOLY FAMILY SCHOOL
Originally ST. NICHOLAS a RC industrial school f. by Cardinal WISEMAN. It catered for destitute Irish boys. He was the first Catholic Archbishop of Westminster, and was living here. A shortlived school, the site was then occupied by ST.JOHN’s industrial a school, from 1873 until 1928.Then, for a short period, became a boys’ hostel, called WISEMAN HOUSE. Sold in 1937 became ST.GEORGE’s school, renamed HOLY FAMILY COLLEGE.
Now, coeduc., secondary and with form. Member of the AQUINAS TRUST of RC schools. Based as well in WALTHAMSTOW HOUSE
ROMAN and PREHISTORIC REMAINS
A ring ditch and bank, around small roundhouse dwellings, then, on the same site, a Roman building. The first one of any substance found in WALTHAMSTOW. Surprising, because there are not Roman roads nearby.Probably a wealthy Roman farmstead, as Purbeck marble and flue tiles suggest high status, with under floor heating
Shernall St..
Site of the LORD BROOKE PH
Late 19th c. Jacobean style, in the middle of streets redevelopment after WW2. GUY GREVILLE, was the husband of the last LADY OF YHE MANOR OF W.TONI, FRANCES EVELYN MAYNARD
The SHERN HALL
The NEW MANOR HOUSE, the TONI HALL, or HIGH HALL (W. FRAUNCEY was the LOW one) was South of the railway line, alongside the road that carries its name.
The MAYNARD family moved the house here, from CLAY ST, in the late 19 th c. Finally demolished 1896 and BARRETT and BROOKE ROADS were laid out and built up. CARDINAL WISEMAN lived here as well
SHERN is a corruption of old English SCEAM WIELLE, meaning muddy stream
Now To WOOD ST.
Alongside VALENTIN RD. you will arrive to LO Sta.
TARNISHED ÁNGEL
CARDINAL NICHOLAS WISEMAN
+++
WOOD STREET
On the map the course of WOOD ST., from Nirth (FOREST RD.) to South (LEA BRIDGE RD.). At the en of VALENTIN ROAD you will find the LONDON OVERGROUND STATION
This is a linear settlement, which dates from the Middle Ages. First, arable lands, became pasturages and dairies, and market gardens. Several grand houses stood on the outskirts of the hamlet. One of them, was the CLOCK HOUSE.
And it remained a separate, rural community until midc19th c., when speculative builders took to laying out series of 2 storey terraced houses… and the hamlet was joined with WALTHAMSTOW.
The area received a boost when the railways arrived in 1873. WOOD ST. STA was served by trains to LIVERPOOL ST.STA, and an early morning workmen fare was available. In fact, many residents of the area lived in reduced circumstances. The WOOD STREET PHILANTHROPICAL SOCIETY distributed free soup in winter, into the 20th c.
And, as well at the beginning of the 20th c. 2 film production companies created silent movies, and afterwards, talkies; Walthamstow was not averse to big budget films and well known actors. On the site of one of the film companies, a factory was build in the 1930s, when the area was redeveloped.
North of FOREST ROAD, in FULBOURNE RD., HAWKER SIDDELEY manufactured power transformers, electrical motors and tap changers until 2003. Elements from the CERN SYNCHROTON, in Switzerland, and smoothing reactors for the first cross channel power supply were produced here. In addition, the LEYTON GREEN factory carried out production of war and defence materials.
Now the street is lined with shops and eateries and has been enhanced by excellent street art.
WE ARE WOOD STREET is a scheme to promote local independent shops.
The White population of the area has been reduced to just its half, from 2/3 in 2001. The Indian, African and Caribbean communities predominate.
First, South of the station,
Station Parade
No.187. THE PIG AND WHISTLE PH
Nos. 111-113MERIDIAN MARKERS
Close to the junction with LEA BRIDGE ROAD
CLOCK HOUSE
B. c. 1710, for a prosperous Dutch merchant, JACOB JACOBSON.
He was a director of the infamous SOUTH SEA COMPANY, which had been given, in 1711, the monopoly of trade with South America. It had floated shares that became very popular, leading to a price increase, allowing many to make handsome profits when selling them, which encouraged a mad rush to invest in the SSC in the hope of getting rich quick. As a result the shares became vastly overvalued. And, following the war with Spain, the bubble burst, share price crashed, leaving many people ruined.
The directors, foreseeing the impending crash, sold their shares at the top rate. They were therefore arrested. The CLOCK HOUSE was sequestered to help refund shareholders, but JJ managed to buy it back.
Much altered, it has become a block of flats.
Enjoy the WOOD ST. WALLS PROJECT. The area has been enhanced by excellent street art.
WOOD STREET LIBRARY
Site of the CROWN CINEMA, now INDOOR MARKET
Antiques, art and craft, collectibles, clothing
No.98 HEADS. Over the shopping antiques arcades.
3 identical plaques and 7 smaller heads
In Havant St.
ST.GABRIEL’S Church
At the corner
THE OLD SHOP: Site of JONES’, the BUTCHERS
WOODSIDE PRIMARY ACADEMY, former WOOD STREET BOARD SCHOOL
NORTH BANK, later THORNE COMBE HOUSE, later a MATERNITY HOSPITAL
Alongside FOREST ROAD
SHERNHALL ST
Site of WALTHAMSTOW HOUSE
SEE ABOVE
FOR THE DESCRIPTION OF THE SIGHTS THAT FOLLOW
Site of BROOKSCROFT
One of the grand mansions along CLAY STREET
WALTHAM FOREST COLLEGE
WAR MEMORIAL
MAGISTRATES COURT
New Millenium celebrations BEACON
WALTHAM FOREST TOWN HALL & CIVIC CENTRE
CHINGFORD ROAD
BELL CORNER
THE BELL PH
SRI KATAPAKA VINAYAGAR TEMPLE
Former EMPIRE CINEMA
LLLOYS PARK. THE WATER HOUSE. WILLIAM MORRIS
Long tour to WOOD STREET through an industrial estate
After the NAG’S HEAD PH… the detour no.2 is going to offer you something surprising. You will end up walking WOOD STREET
Turn left, alongside Summit Road
Victorian dwellings
Entrance to RAVENSWOOD industrial estate
GOD’S OWN JUNK YARD
CHRIS BRACEY (d.2014) aka “the Neon Man”, or “the Master of Glow” manufactured and displayed here neon signs, combining faith and irreverence.
He was born in London. His father, a coal miner from Wales, set up as a maker of neon signs for circuses and fairgrounds. He was beaten at his RC School for being left handed, and left it without qualifications. Once in London did a foundation course at the what nowadays is the London College of Communication. When he left, he went to work for ELECTRO SIGNS, a family firm. He moved on making neon signage for SOHO sex clubs and shops (he did that for 30 years, when SOHO had hundreds of those locals!).
Outside RAYMOND’S REVUE BAR he had placed “Rude Encounters”, “Dreaming Lips”, “Pink Pussycat”, “Girls, Girls, Girls”. Those signs and many others are now in BERLIN. His works have been shown in the USA (LA, Miami).
In fact, was a visit to the HAYWARD GALLERY, where US BRUCE NORMAN had his work’s exhibited, what opened his eyes to the neon’s potential for art-making.
Then, thanks to a chance encounter with art director of MONA LISA, in SOHO, while putting up a sign, he began to make neon props for film sets: BATMAN, BLADE RUNNER, CHARLIE CHOCOLATE FACTORY, EYES WIDE SHOT (KUBRICK). Some of them are shown in this workshop cum museum, which has a 700-strong collection.
TRACEY EMIN, MARTIN GREED and other BRITART movement used neon to create art, made by other people. Instead BRACEY did the work himself, here. Using gold leaf, Murano glass, radioactive krypton gas… well, this last one experiment nearly led to disaster!.
He did indeed pieces for other artists, shown in the TATE MODERN (creed), and works for SELFRIDGES’ windows, but he was paid far less than consecrated artists.
A frequent visitor here was GRAYSON PERRY, erstwhile WALTHAMSTOW neighbour.
And JUDE LAW, KATE MOSS, ELTON JOHN , LADY GAGA and more, are collectors of his works
BREWERIES
You are exiting this area and into WOOD STREET
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