WALTHAMSTOW to CHINGFORD
WILLIAM MORRIS GALLERY, WATER HOUSE
The William Morris Gallery is a museum devoted to the life and works of William Morris, an English Arts and Crafts designer and early socialist. It is located in a substantial Grade II* listed Georgian home. The extensive grounds of the building are a public park, known as LLOYD PARK.
The William Morris Gallery holds the most comprehensive collection of objects relating to all aspects of Morris's life and work, including his work as a designer, a writer and a social activist.
Water House was constructed in 1762[ and was Morris' family home in his teenage years from 1848 to 1856. The building and its grounds were sold on to newspaper proprietor Edward Lloyd in 1856, whose son donated the house and grounds (which then became Lloyd Park) to Walthamstow in 1900. The building was not opened as a museum until 1950, by Prime Minister Clement Attlee.
More about WILLIAM MORRIS
His factory in MERTON ABBEY MILLS. Now, CRAFT MARKETS
This site formerly housed a range of picturesque old timber buildings including a calico printing works was acquired by William Morris in 1881 and turned out his famous printed textiles, hangings and stained glass. The site later housed the Merton Board Mills.
KELMSCOTT HOUSE. WILLIAM MORRIS SOCIETY. Museum and activities
Built in about 1785, it was the London home of English textile designer, artist, writer and socialist William Morris from 1878 to 1896.
Originally called The Retreat, Morris renamed it after the Oxfordshire village of Kelmscott, where he had lived at Kelmscott Manor from June 1871.
Nearby, Morris began his "adventure in printing" with his private press, the Kelmscott Press, which he started at 16 Upper Mall in 1891.
LLOYD’S PARK
The gardens of Water House, now known as Lloyd Park, are a public park maintained by Waltham Forest Borough Council.[11] The park includes an area surrounded by a moat which pre-dates the Georgian house.
The park's facilities include a café, public toilets, artist studios, a play area, a bowls pavilion, tennis courts, skate park and basketball practice areas.[10] The park also hosts a regular food market, Lloyd Park Market.[12]
Sri Karpaga Vinayagar Kovil
NORTH CIRCULAR ROAD
The North Circular Road (officially the A406 and sometimes known as simply the North Circular) is a 25.7-mile-long (41.4 km) ring road around Central London in England. It runs from Chiswick in the west to Woolwich in the east via suburban North London, connecting various suburbs and other trunk roads in the region. Together with its counterpart, the South Circular Road, it mostly forms a ring road around central London, except for crossing of the River Thames, which is done by the Woolwich Ferry.
The road was constructed in the Interwar period to connect local industrial communities and by pass London. It was upgraded after World War II, and was at one point planned to become a motorway as part of the controversial and ultimately cancelled London Ringwaysscheme. In the early 1990s, the road was extended to bypass Barking and meet the A13 north of Woolwich, though without a direct link to the ferry.
SITE OF THE CROOKED BILLET PH
The Crooked Billet Pub on Chingford Road, seen here c1910, was first mentioned way back in 1742 and rebuilt in 1930. The Crooked Billet stood close to the new North Circular Road and Walthamstow Greyhound Stadium. The pub was demolished in the 1980s due to road widening.
SITE OF THE WALTHAMSTOW STADIUM
Walthamstow Stadium was a greyhound racing track. It was regarded as the leading greyhound racing stadium in Britain following the closure of White City in 1984.[The stadium closed on 16 August 2008.
In the early part of the 20th century the Myrtle Grove sports ground was built and used by the Walthamstow Grange Football Club from 1908. By 1929 the ground hosted greyhound racing for the first time and was known as the Crooked Billet Greyhound and whippet track (named after the nearby Crooked Billet public house). In 1931, William Chandler, a bookmaker by trade, decided to build on the existing independent track. Chandler also had shares in the Hackney Wick Stadium.
It cost Chandler £24,000 to buy the site and the Art Deco parapet entrance was built in 1932 with the clock tower and totalisator board being designed by Thomas & Edge Ltd. builders of Woolwich. The grand official opening was on Monday 19 June 1933, opened by Jack Kid Berg and in which aviator Amy Johnson presented a trophy as a guest.
Motor cycle speedway racing was staged at the Walthamstow Greyhound Stadium in Chingford Road in 1934 and between 1949 and 1951.
Following the course of THE RIVER CHING
The River Ching is a tributary of the River Lea, flowing from Epping Forest,
HIGHAMS PARK & HALE END
A suburban district, adjacent to EPPING FOREST, 8’7 m. NE of CHARING CROSS, traditionally, part of the parish and, afterwards, municipal borough. A residential area, mostly made up of Victorian, Edwardian, up to the 1930s terraced houses.
Its name derives from a mansion on the edge of WOODFORD.
HALE END, to the East, shares with WOODFORD the IG8 postal code, but the truth is that there is no break in the rows of houses between it and HPK, so that it is considered part of it. However, some consider HALE END a different place, as it originated from a different village settlement.
Previously, the whole area was named HALE END, as evidenced by the names of the LIBRARY and the “HALEX” factory.
A WALTER DE LA HALE lived here in 1285. And a THOMAS HALE, in 1634. Did they gave name to the region or vice versa?.
Definitely, this was one of the outlying places of WALTHAMSTOW, one of its “ends”. A ”hale” is a nook, a corner, a secluded place… Here, since the D.B, has been a clearing in the forest, known as NORTH END or WOOD END. The present name was established in the 1650s.
The area was boosted by communications: the railways and the NORTH CIRCULAR.
Residential, yes, but as well industrial, even “high tech”: plastics by BRITISH XYLONITE, scientific, electronic
Winchester Road
SITE OF HALEX FACTORY, BRITISH XYLONITE COMPANY.
The Halex factory was situated on Larkshall Road and was a major local employer from 1897 to 1971. The factory was established by the British Xylonite Company to produce a variety of goods mostly from plastic.
It pioneered the manufacture of celluloid in the AUK. The Halex company had a virtual monopoly on manufacturing table tennis balls. HALEX-branded toothbrushes dominated the market, as well.
The factory closed in the early 1970s and has since been knocked down and replaced by new smaller factories and industrial buildings. A plaque on Jubilee Avenue marks the spot where the building stood; it reads "Plastics Historical Society. On this site, from 1897–1971, stood the Halex factory of the British Xylonite Company."
Some of the land in this area is now owned by supermarket chain Tesco, which was initially refused permission to build a store on the site in June 2007 by then Local Government Secretary Ruth Kelly after a protracted process of planning applications dating back to early 2005. The reasons cited for the refusal involved the size of the proposed store and the building not being in keeping with local Victorian and Edwardian buildings. However, in 2009 a revised planning application was passed despite the efforts of some local residents to stop this from happening.
Terraced houses, flats, live-work units have been built around the store and shops.
WAR MEMORIAL
A recent campaign seek to honour the men of Highams Park who worked in the Halex Factory and gave their lives in both world wars. The campaigners also succeeded to see the return of the local war memorial to its original site.
TOWN CENTRE
LO STATION
Originally, 1873, HALE END. Rebuilt 1900. The CHINGFORD BRANCH LINE from LEA BRIDGE to SHERHALL ST (1870}, ext.1872 to HACKNEY DOWNS (connecting with BETHNAL GREEN and LIVERPOOL ST.STA), and 1873 to CHINGFORD. When the TOTTENHAM AND FOREST GATE RAILWAY began to serve it, the name given was HIGHAM PARK & HALE END, in order to publicise the new development, and that blurred the identities of the 2 places
Since 2015, the line is part of the LEA VALLEY lines.
MERIDIAN GARDEN
LEVEL CROSSING SIGNAL BOX
Built 1925, from here a signalman controlled the crossing until 2002. Now, the gates are operated from a central office in LIVERPOOL ST.STA.
The BOX is the only surviving line on the line and was saved from demolition, thanks to the HPK FORUM and the local MP, D. SMITH with the interrogant of turning it into a museum or a tea room…
MILLENIUM CLOCK
MERIDIAN PLAQUE
The plaque celebrates the unusual position of this town centre in global mapping. The plaque marks the International Reference Meridian (IRM), the place where mobile phones and other sat nav devices will show zero longitude. This is not the Greenwich Meridian.
The Greenwich Meridian is the line on the left and the IRM is the line on the right.
SIR GEORGE EDWARDS BIRTHPLACE
George Robert Edwards was born at Highams Park in Essex in 1908, the son of Edwin George Edwards, then a stationer at Walthamstow, and his wife, Mary, née Freeman, who died two weeks after George was born. He went to school locally, then to the South West Essex Technical College and on to London University, where he gained a BSc in Engineering – and a lifelong devotion to cricket.
He designed the Viscount and oversaw the development of Concorde
FORMER REGAL CINEMA
Opened in 1911 as the HPK ELECTRIC THETRE, with a capacity of 500 people. The REGAL name was adopted in 1928. Façade and entrance foyer were revamped in 1935 in an ART DECO style
Closed in 1971, becoming a bingo club and a snooker hall until 2014.
Planning application for a café, a 2 screens cinema and 30 homes was placed, permission given and works were supposed to begin in 2019.
In 1970 DEEP END scenes were shot here, with JANE ASHER, DIANA DORS and JOHN MULDER BRIWN
Detour: the TOTTENHAM OUTRAGE
EASTERN EUROPEAN REVOLUTIONARIES cause mayhem in rural ESSEX
Oak Hill, off Hale End Road
Paul Hefeld and Jacob Lapidu, 2 LATVIAN ANARCHISTS, attempted to steal the wages from a factory in TOTTENHAM OAK HILL COTTAGE.
Unfortunately for them, the company was in the shadow of the local police station and they were rumbled.
Police chased them, commandeering cars, a horse and cart and even a tram, through Tottenham Marshes and across the River Lea towards Walthamstow in a manhunt worthy of a Hollywood film.
A constable and a ten-year-old boy were shot in the melee.
After running across Walthamstow Marshes and ending up in Chingford, Lapidus shot himself in the head rather than be captured.
In desperation Hefeld took hostages in Oak Cottage next door to the Royal Oak, Hale End and after a shoot-out with police was overpowered and captured.
He died several days later in hospital from head injuries.
More about “Russian Anarchists” in London:
People from territories under the tyrannical rule of the Czar that existed in their country at the dawn of the twentieth century. Their rebellion had been brutally suppressed; many had seen their families savagely murdered and they had fled with a burning hatred of Czarist Russia.
Escaping to England, they joined organisations whose purpose was raising money (as well by lawless means) for the cause of overthrowing Czarist Russia. “Lawless means” could, and did, include such desperate measures as bank robbery and raiding jewellers’ shops.
The Siege of Sidney Street (CHURCHILL was there. Can you spot him?)
In a 1902 report to his superiors, one French security service agent, writing from London, claimed that the main Russian political émigré association in England was located in London’s East End. The ‘Whitechapel Group’ as he called it, had its headquarters in a cramped library, in Church Lane, which served as the ‘rallying centre of the Russian revolutionary movement in London’.
You continue towards CHINGFORD
“HALE END” PUBLIC LIBRARY
The only public amenity of the area (saved from closure and relocation, or downsizing) by the well organised local campaigners
ALL SAINTS CHURCH
“We are a lively, evangelical church with a vision to ‘Seek First the Kingdom of God’, by deepening our relationship with God and by demonstrating the love of Jesus in our neighbourhood”.
The church of ALL SAINTS, Selwyn Avenue, originated in 1898 when All Saints, Castle Avenue, a red brick structure with stone dressings in the Perpendicular style, was built as a mission of St. Peter's. Elizabeth Ainslie (d. 1901) of Rolls in Chingford contributed to the cost of the building, and by her will gave £1,000, the income from which was to be used towards the stipend of the mission curate until a separate parish of All Saints should be formed, and then to become part of the endowment of the benefice. A conventional district was formed for All Saints in 1907. A new parish, taken from those of St. Peter and St. John, was formed in 1912, the advowson of the vicarage being vested in the bishop. In the same year a new and larger parish church, designed by Hoare & Wheeler, was built in Selwyn Avenue, where there had been an iron mission room, known as St. Matthew's, since 1908. (fn. 180) The building, of brown brick with Decorated windows, is incomplete at the east end. The original church in Castle Avenue, subsequently known as ALL-SAINTS-ON-THE-HILL, became a chapel of ease to the new church. Part of All Saints parish was transferred in 1956 to that of St. Anne, Chingford.
REPTON’S PARK. SITE OF HIGHAM BENSTED
The MANOR OF HIGHAMS, after the NORMAN CONQUEST (it is listed in the DB) was given various names, sometimes described as a hamlet in the parish of WALCOMESTOW, as HEYCHAM TOWN, then HEYHAM COMYN. Later it became HIGHAM BENSTEAD, or BEMSTEAD, then HIGHAMS HILL or HIGHAMS, as it is now known.
In 1596 HB was mentioned as having a waste or common, containing 400 acres of HEATH or FURZE amongst its lands.
The MANOR HOUSE has situated around the junction of BILLET ROAD and BLACKHORSE LANE, during the 16th-18th cs. It survived in part as ESSEX HALL.
In 1764 ANTHONY BACON acquired the manor and erected a new house, in its Eastern boundary, with WOODFORD. The house, 1798, was designed by WILLIAM NEWTON, was known a HIGHAM HILL, and today it survives as WOODFORD COUNTY SCHOOL FOR GIRLS.
HOUSE and 323 acres of land were sold in 1790 to JOHN HARMAN who wished to extend the surrounding forested land into a private park for the Manor House.
He employed HUMPHREY REPTON to suggest alterations to the house and to landscape the gardens into a park. H.R was the foremost landscape gardener of his day. He is renowned for his redesigning of the estate, merging the garden with the larger landscape. It totalled 93 acres of park (in the 1930s only 28 acres remained).
The house was owned later by the WARNER family (the BIG W of WALTHAMSTOW HIGH ST.!)
HR was born in BURY ST.EDMUNDS in 1752. He lived in ROMFORD (HARE ST.). Other examples of his works are WOODFORD HALL and CLAYBURY HALL. “The views from front and back are of that extensive kind to which painting neves does justice”. He took no notice of the views to the entrance front (off the HIGH ROAD) “since the scope behind the house is so ample”. He wished to “command one of the most pleasing scenes in nature” by removing the kitchen garden and redistributing the trees, of different species, age, size.
The creation of the LAKE by damning the RIVER CHING was intended to be a leading feature, and “such an obvious improvement” to the landscape.
Following his usual custom and passion for painting and drawing, HR prepared one of his RED BOOKS describing the alterations he suggested. The book, bound in Morocan scarlet leather, contains watercolour sketches and proposals of improvements showed in painted flaps that fold across the sketches. You can see this RED BOOK in the VESTRY HOUSE MUSEUM.
His SUMMER HOUSE was not realised though. However, a later construction on the lake, that HARMAN requested, was built from the stones of OLD LONDON BRIDGE. It is said that some of those stones remain to this day on the lakeside.
Thomas COURTENAY
Son JEREMIAH sold the estate to EDWARD WARNER of CLOCK HOUSE (WALTHAMSTOW), in 1817.
In 1875 THOMAS COURTENAY WARNER inherited the estate, and 5 years later began planning for a residential development.
London was expanding. The arrival of the railways resulted in rapid development… In 1883 was begun the WARNER ESTATE, the largest in WALTAMSTOW: houses, maisonettes and flats intended for artisans. He began developing the Clock House Estate. His company, The Warner Estate Co. Ltd., was registered in 1891, and in 1897 he created another company which became Courtenay Building Ltd. to construct the housing. By 1900 housing had been built on Blackhorse Lane, as well as a business development of shops and offices on Walthamstow High Street.
THE HIGHAMS ESTATE
Here, the development of HIGHAMS was designed to cater for the middle classes. After a false start, including MONTALT ROAD LODGES, in 1897, the HIGHAMS ESTATE, of some 90 acres, was developed in the 1930s., promising an “exceptionally healthy elevation (230ft above sea level) and a fresh and invigorating atmosphere of decidedly health giving quality”. Definitely, this has been designed as an area of special character.
It comprises over 300 semi-detached and detached homes bounded by The Highams Park to the west, Chingford Lane to the north and east, and Oak Hill to the south.
The roads that make up The Highams Estate are:
- Crealock Grove (1930): named after MALCOLM CREALOCK, a director of the Warner Estate and Law Land Building Dept.
- Henry's Avenue (1930): named after SIR HENRY WARNER
- Keynsham Avenue (1934): until 1897, Courtenay Warner owned an estate near KEYNSHAM in SOMERSET
- Lichfield Road (1933): Courtenay Warner was a Liberal MP for LICHFIELD, STAFFS. 1896 - 1923
- Marion Grove (1936): origins of this name are unknown
- Mason Road (1933): commemorating the family's involvement in Freemasonry
- Montalt Road (1897): named after Earl de Montalt, 4th Viscount Hawarden and father-in-law to Courtenay Warner
- Nesta Road (1932): named after the Hon. Nesta Douglas-Pennant who married Edward Warner in 1920
- Tamworth Avenue (1934): TAMWORTH, Staffs. was part of Courtenay Warner's Lichfield constituency
- The Charter Road (1930): Courtenay Warner was the CHARTER MAYOR of Walthamstow
EPPING FOREST
In 1891 the larger part of the remaining estate was sold to the CORPORATION OF LONDON, which opened it to the public as part of EPPING FOREST. The CITY maintains the semi natural woodland, including the lake while the park is maintained by the LBWF
Highams Park now forms part of the our Special Area of Conservation and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest; being home to lots of plants and tree species, including ancient hornbeam pollards and a grove of young oaks upstream of the lake. ALDERS and WILLOWS surround the lake. The CING flows alongside. Native fish species are here to be fished…
THE HIGHAMS PARK
1930s. SIR EDWARD WARNER succeeded to the estate and sold 20 acres of undeveloped land to WALTHAMSTOW, for £8.000. A remaining part of 8 acres he dedicated it to the Council, subject to the whole being used as a public open space. All this was completed in 1937.
After WW2 the park became a refuge for those left homeless by bomb damage. 175 pre-fab houses were built to address the shortage of housing, remaining until 1961. The network of wide paths within the park are the survivors of the roads laid out by the Council
CHINGFORD HATCH
Chingford Hatch’s name was first mentioned in 1487. Although Simon and William DE LA HACHE were recorded as living here in the early 13th century a “hatch” was a gate, probably used here to prevent cattle from straying from their pasture on the edge of Epping Forest, and the locality is sometimes referred to simply as ‘the Hatch’.
Walthamstow worthy Sir George Monoux owned a house and 13 acres of land here at the time of his death in 1544. Although a small village had evolved by the late 18th century, it was not until the early 20th century that radial expansion from Chingford Green reached this far.
Much of the area is often now called Friday Hill, following the London County Council’s construction of the estate of that name in the 1950s. Widespread change followed all across the district, as weatherboarded cottages and a Wesleyan chapel gave way to new houses, car-body repairers replaced wheelwrights, and unsightly shops were built on a service road beside Hatch Lane.
FALLOW DEER ARTWORK
MARSHALL LAMBERT, sculptor
Part of the Animal Sculpture Trail that comprised 12 specially created animal sculptures carved out of large logs on green spaces dotted around Highams Park.
They were carved in situ from logs provided by the Corporation of the City of London from trees that needed to be felled in Epping Forest. The trail was commissioned as part of Waltham Forest London Borough of Culture 2019 and the overall event was called 'Wild About Highams Park'.
FRIDAY HILL
This was previously Jackatt Hill and its present name probably derives from John Friday, who was living here in 1467, or from his successor Thomas Friday, who remained in the locality until 1483.
In 1608 City merchant Thomas Boothby acquired the manor of Chingford Comtis, also known as Chingford Earls, and built a manor house here. The hill was at that time said to be inhabited by snakes and toads that spat fire – a story that was probably put about to keep intruders away from the grounds of the house.
The London County Council built the Friday Hill Estate in Chingford from 1938 into the 1950s. The Council bought the site from the Heathcote family, owners of the nineteenth-century Friday Hill House (which itself stood on the site of the historic manor house of Chingford Earls). After the last of the Heathcotes died in 1940, the LCC used the house as a community centre, at the heart of the estate. As with many of the Council's cottage estates, the building of Friday Hill caused controversy in the local area, where residents expressed their concerns about the destruction of parkland and an influx of East Enders.
Now, a self-managed estate
In August 1994 the tenants on the Friday Hill Estate formed a committee to set up a Tenant Management Organisation (TMO). This was because they wanted to take over management responsibility for their homes (under the Right to Manage). They were successful and from the 2nd November 1998 the Friday Hill TMO provided the Housing Management Function on behalf of the Housing department of London Borough of Waltham Forest.
FRIDAY HILL HOUSE, THE FORMER MANOR HOUSE:
Friday Hill House, on the crest of the hill, designed by the architect Lewis Vulliamy (1791–1871), was built in 1839, for ROBERT BOOTHBY HEATHCOTE, Lord of the Manor of CHINGFORD EARLS (or COMTIS), and Rector. He was a local benefactor, paying for ST.PETER & ST.PAUL’S CHURCH (CHINGFORD), also of VULLIAMY’s design. It served as the manor house of the Heathcote family, replacing an earlier Jacobean house on the site (built in 1608, and probably the same woodwork is still in place). Panelling and fireplaces survive today, and the family CREST is over the front door
The manor house had farmland of 160 acres (0.65 km2). Louisa Boothby-Heathcote (1854–1940), who had succeeded as lady of the manor in 1915, was the last resident of the house.
After the 1939-45 war, the estate, 160 acres of farmland, was sold to London County Council who built the large housing estate and converted the house into a COMMUNITY CENTRE (until 2006, then in 2012, it became part of LBWF’S LEARNING EDUCATION SERVICES. Now, home)
Sir Gilbert Heathcote 1652-1733 born in Chesterfield Derbyshire from 1681-1733 had a successful career in the Jamaican slave trade, which was a major source of his wealth. He was in 1694 one of the founders of the Bank of England. As well as a founder of the colony of Georgia.
With his wealth he brought large estates in Britain including Leyton Essex, where he brought Forest House as a family home.
John Heathcote 1727-1795 married Lydia Moyer 1738-1822 in Leyton Essex, she inherited the lands of Chingford Earls and Chingford St Paul’s.
PIMP HALL PARK & PIMP HALL NATURE RESERVE
In a green area at the bottom of Friday Hill. It is possible to get a good view of this by entering the Pimps Hill Nature Reserve. To find this, go down the turning by 48 Kings Road, and go past the entrance to Kings Road Recycling Centre, facing you is a gate to the nature reserve.
Woodlands, meadows, hedgerows, a pond, trees and shrubs, grassy areas with wildflowers, which attract birds and butterflies.
THE DOVECOTE
This Tudor style dovecote dates from the sixteenth century. At that time, pigeons were kept and fattened up for eating. The dovecote, had nesting space for 250 This dovecote is depicted in the Mosaic that you will see later in CHINGFORD.
Eating dove’s flesh was considered a force against plague and pestilential diseases, and against trembling and palsie, and good for sight. Of course, fattening pigeon s was strictly the prerogative of the rich and powerful, and constituted a constant supply of meat (75 young birds were produced weekly).
SITE OF PIMP HALL
PYMPE’S HALL was one of the 3 manors around CHINGFORD. It was known as MANOR OF GOWERS AND BUCKERELS. In 1838 it was taken over by CHINGFORD EARLS ESTATE. RAYNOLD PYMPE was Lord Mayor in 1530. In 1538 GEORGE MANOUX owned it. Then, the CROWN. Afterwards, private owners again.A timber framed hall.The farmhouse associated with it survived in working order until before the Second WW. It was visited in 1929 and the record shows it was a two storey building, timber-framed and plastered; probably built in the late 16th century and constructed to an 'L' shaped plan. There was a projecting pillared porch bearing the date 1576 although the porch itself was probably added later. There was an original window of two lights with a moulded frame. Some parts had been repaired but most of the ancient work was in good condition. Some small rooms had been constructed out of larger ones. Some original ceiling beams were exposed. Standing over a well to the north of the house there was a dovehouse and to the west a barn of five bays.
Chingford Urban District Council purchased Pimp Hall in 1934 and the farmhouse became derelict and was demolished between 1936 and 1939. The Barn and Dovecote were not demolished with though . The barn survived for many years. Only the Dovecote now remains.
Just a legend
There is a local legend telling how on one occasion CHARLES II was out hunting in Epping Forest and was caught in a snowstorm. He took shelter in PIMP HALL and was so delighted with the food offered to him that he jocularly drew his sword and knighted the joint of beef declaring that it was now “Sir Loin”. Either this story caused the nearby pub on Friday Hill to called "The Sirloin” or vice versa.
Fact: the word sirloin derives from the Middle English surloine, itself derived from the Old French word surloigne (variant of surlonge), that is, sur for 'above' and longe for 'loin'. In Modern French, the cut of meat is called aloyau or faux-filet.
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